Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Sampler Afghan Crochet-A-Long Square #4


If you are just joining us, welcome!  We're so glad to have you :-)  These links will get you up to speed on things: introduction, square #1, #2, #3.

Now for square #4!  This is our second square for February and is our colorwork square for the month.  This particular block is worked from corner to corner in a diagonal pattern.  The pattern is a basic double crochet stripe and uses increases and decreases at the beginnings and endings of the rows to achieve the correct shaping.  One thing to note with this pattern is with the color changes, please just drop the old yarn and pick up the new one when there is a color change.  Cutting the yarn is not necessary.  As you can see in the photo, you do end up with the loose yarns along the edge where you changed colors, but these will be hidden when the blocks are seamed together, so there's no need to fuss or do anything with them at this point.


Pattern

Special stitch instructions:  
Double crochet 2 together (dc2tog):  (Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops) two times.  Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.
  
Begin this square with B.  Work 2 rows with B, then work 2 rows with A.  Continue in this manner for entire square.  Do not cut the yarn when switching colors, just drop it and pick up the next color. 

Foundation chain: Ch 4 Row 1: Make 4 dc in beginning ch. (5 stitches) Ch 3, turn. 
Row 2: Make 2 dc in first dc.  Dc in each of next 3 dc.  Make 2 dc in top of turning chain.  (8 stitches) Ch 3, turn. 
Row 3: Make 2 dc in first dc. Dc in each remaining dc.  Make 2 dc in top of turning chain. (11 stitches) Ch 3, turn. 
Row 4-11: Repeat row 3.  (Stitch count will increase by 3 on each row)
Rows 12-21:  Skip first stitch.  (Dc2tog over next 2 stitches) twice.  Dc in each stitch on row. Leave top of ch 3 unworked.  Ch 3, turn.
Row 22:  Ch 3.  Dc3tog over next 3 stitches.  Fasten off and weave in ends.  

This particular stitch pattern is used in the unforgettable ponchette pattern available here.  In the ponchette below, a self-patterning yarn was used to create the striped look without the color changes.


Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Taraduff's Sampler Afghan Crochet-a-long Square #3


Hopefully you've enjoyed the squares so far and learned some new stitches!  If you are just joining us, You can find the basic information about the crochet-a-long here, and the pattern for square #1 here, and square #2 here.  

Square #3 is our solid square for February.  If you remember, the last square (#2) used a v-stitch.  This block also uses a v-stitch, although the pattern itself is slightly different.  It is a super easy pattern that can be used in a variety of projects.  It makes a fabric that drapes, stretches, and is slightly airy without large holes.  It is used in this beret hat.  Thanks also go to my sweet friend Peggy Ashby for helping design this square.  


Pattern

Special stitch instructions:

V-stitch:  Dc, ch 1, dc in same stitch.

Foundation ch & row 1:  Ch 32.  Dc in 4th ch from hook.  Ch 1, dc in same ch.  *Skip 2 ch, v-stitch in next stitch.  Repeat from * across to last ch.  Dc in last ch. (10 v-stitches)  Turn.
Row 2:  Ch 3.  V-stitch in ch-1 sp of next v-stitch and in each v-stitch across.  Dc in top of beginning ch-3.
Rows 3-15:  Repeat row 2.  
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Below is a close up of the block.



Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Sampler afghan crochet-a-long square #2

Block #2 for our sampler afghan is our first colorwork square.  This block uses 2 colors.  I used up some of my stash on the square in the photo.  For those using the Red Heart With Love colors I used in the finished blanket, the key to the colors is as follows:


A - Mango
B - Bluebell
C - Lettuce

If needed, please refer back to this post for yarn and gauge information.

This block uses a v-stitch.  If this stitch is new to you, it s a great one to know.  It looks great in a solid color as well as stripes.  It is used in the body of this kufi hat to give you an idea of something to make! 

Square #2


Pattern

Special Stitch Instructions
V-stitch:  Dc, ch 1, dc in one stitch

For colorwork, work rows in following colors:
1-5: A
6,7: C
8,9: A
10-13: C
14,15: A
16,17: C
18-22: A
Foundation ch and row 1:  With A Ch 32.  Sc in second ch from hook and each remaining ch.  (31 sc)  Turn.
Row 2:  Ch 1.  Sc in first sc.  *Skip next stitch. V-stitch in next stitch.  Skip  next stitch.  Sc in next stitch.  Repeat from * until 2 stitches remain.  Skip next stitch.  Make 2 dc in last stitch.  Turn.
Row 3:  Ch 1.  Sc in first dc. *V-stitch in next sc.  Sc in next ch-1 sp.  Repeat from * until last ch-1 sp is worked.  Make 2 dc in last sc.  Turn.
Rows 4-21:  Repeat row 3 ending with row.
Row 22:  Ch 1.  Make 1 sc in each stitch and each ch-1 sp.  (29 sc) Fasten off and weave in ends.

Below is a close up of the stitch pattern for square #2.


Wednesday, January 14, 2015

Taraduff's crochet-a-long square #1


It's time for the first solid square pattern for our sampler afghan!  This particular square is fairly basic.  It starts and ends with a row of dc.  The patterned rows consist of a basic sc, dc, dc pattern.  I have seen this called the silt stitch before, however the times I have seen to it referred to as such, it had a row of dc in between each patterned row.  If it has another name that you are aware of, I would love for you to share it!  I've seen this pattern used for baby blankets.  It produces a fairly solid fabric with a nice texture.  It's also used in the body of this cute newsboy cap

Square #1



Pattern:

Foundation ch and row 1:  Ch 33.  Dc in fourth ch from hook and in each ch across (31 dc)  Turn.
Row 2:  Ch 1.  (Sc, 2 dc) in first dc.  Skip next 2 dc.  *(Sc, 2 dc) in next dc.  Skip next 2 dc.  Repeat from * across.  Sc in top of beginning ch.  Turn.
Row 3:  Ch 1.  (Sc, 2 dc) in first sc.  *Skip next 2 dc.  **(Sc, 2 dc) in next sc.  Repeat from * to end of row ending at ** Sc in last sc.  Turn.
Rows 4-22:  Repeat row 3.
Row 23:  Ch 3.  Skip first stitch.  dc in each remaining stitch.  (31 dc)  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Below is a close-up of the stitch pattern.


Saturday, January 10, 2015

2015 Sampler Square Afghan Project! (2015 crochet-a-long introduction)

Hi there :-)  I for one am glad that 2014 is OVER!  It held many ups and some pretty down downs for us and I'm glad to see it end.  Whether you had a wonderful 2014, or you had a less than stellar year, my heartfelt wish for you all is that you experience much joy and happiness and prosperity in this new year.

With a new year come new projects!  Hopefully you have some crochet projects you want to tackle, or perhaps some new crochet skills you'd like to learn.  A dear friend of mine and I embarked on a sampler square project (afghan) last spring/summer that we'd like to share.  The afghan consists of 24 squares. There are 12 solid squares and 12 colorwork squares.  With each square being 10 inches, once they are assembled, the blanket will measure 40 inches wide and 60 inches tall.  The border will add roughly 1 1/2 inches on each side to make the finished blanket measure 43 x 63 inches.

I'll be sharing the pattern for each block here on the blog.  I'll post one solid square and one of the colorwork squares each month.  Working two squares each month will leave you with all 24 at the end of the year ready to be assembled!  In December I'll also talk about assembling the squares and adding the border.

Things you will need........

1.  YARN!  Ha ha, I bet you didn't see that one coming ;-)  OK, really, this would be a great stashbuster project if you like that kind of thing.  The yarn I used on the finished blanket was Red Heart With Love.  I used 1 skein each of the colors Mango, Bluebell, and Lettuce and 3-4 skeins of Caramel. Sadly, Caramel is no longer available, but a good substitute would be Red Heart With Love in Tan, or Vanna's Choice in Toffee.  I've found Vanna's Choice and Red Heart With Love to be interchangeable and achieve the same gauge with either yarn.

2.  CROCHET HOOK!  Yes, I'm sure you saw that one coming, right?  I used a size J hook.  If you crochet relatively tight, you will probably need a larger size hook to get the right gauge, I crochet a little on the loose side.  However, if you make one square and it doesn't turn out 10 inches square, but you like the size and are comfortable with the hook size you used, by all means use that hook.  If you use the same type of yarn on each square, they should all turn out the same size.  It will affect the size of your finished afghan though.  Just multiply the size of your square by 4 for the width and by 6 for the length, plus a couple of inches for the border.  If you'll be happy with that size, then go for it!  Otherwise, adjust the size of your hook and try another square.

3.  You will also need scissors (obviously)  and a tapestry needle.

Lets talk about gauge for a moment.  The base gauge for this project is 10 stitches x 6 rows in dc = 4 inches.  That being said, the stitch patterns vary from square to square.  You will want to keep an eye on the size of each finished square to be sure they are coming out pretty uniform in size.  I have made each square a few times and had them checked by a tester as well and each square did seem to turn out the same size for everyone as long as the same size hook and same yarn was used for each square.

Here is another finished afghan in a different color scheme.

I hope you'll consider crocheting along with me on this project for 2015.  You'll learn some new stitches and skills and end up with a beautiful blanket as well!


Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Knit look tunisian crochet headband pattern


I've crocheted since I was small.  Not surprising that it has become one of my favorite past-times :-)  When I pick up yarn and a hook, I feel that the possibilities are endless.  If you're reading this, maybe you can relate!  I did often wonder about knitting though - when I'd see some 'yarny' thing that wasn't crocheted, I figured it was that 'knitting thing' that I didn't know how to do!  I did eventually teach myself to knit - but it took many years before I did.  I do love knitting too - but as a crocheter, I find it takes sooo long!  I still do it occasionally though.  Then I discovered tunisian crochet.  If you haven't tried it, I highly recommend trying it out.  It will add more possibilities to your crafting of yarny things ;-)  It also allows you to make things that look very much like they are knitted!  

I want to share a super simple pattern with you.  It would definitely help if you are familiar with tunisian crochet.  If you're not - there are loads of wonderful resources online you can find to quickly get you up to speed.  This particular pattern uses the tunisian knit stitch throughout.  Increases and decreases are used to achieve the shaping.  It fastens with a button at the back.  I used a fun handmade wood button for decoration on this one.  You can find the large buttons for sale here.  





Hook:  Size M13/9mm Tunisian style crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge) If you have trouble finding the right size hook at your local yarn shop - they are  readily available to order online.

Gauge: 11 stitches x 12 rows in TKS (tunisian knit stitch) = 4 inches square

Yarn: 1 skein Lion Brand Yarns Heartland Thick & Quick  

Notions:  1- 1 1/2 inch size button for closure and  2 1/2 inch large button for decoration (if desired).

Finished size:  4 inches wide x 18 inches long (unstretched, not including button loop)

Note:  This pattern is easily adjusted for different sizes and different weights of yarn.  To make it longer or shorter, just increase the number of rows when you get to rows 8-42.   To make it wider or shorter, just increase or decrease the number of increase and decrease rows.

Special stitches:
TKS: (tunisian knit stitch): Insert hook in next stitch between the two vertical bars and under the horizontal bars, from front to back through the fabric. Yarn over and pull up a loop.

PATTERN

Foundation Chain:  Chain 5
*The rows are worked the same for all variations, only the number of stitches changes.

Row 1: (RS) Fwd pass: Pull up lp in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (5 loops on hook.)   Rtn: Yo, pull through 1 lp. *Yo, pull through 2 lps. Repeat from * for remainder of row.

Row 2: Fwd pass: TKS across. (5 loops on hook)  Rtn pass: Same as for row 1.

Row 3: (increase 2 stitches on this row).  TKS in first stitch.  *Insert hook in between stitch just worked and next stitch under the horizontal bar, from front to back through the fabric.  Yarn over and pull up a loop.  (Increase made)* TKS in next stitch. Repeat pattern between *’s to make one more increase. TKS for remainder of row. (7 loops on hook). Rtn pass: Same as for row 1.

Row 4:  Fwd pass:  TKS across.  (7 lps on hook).  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.  

Row 5:  (increase 2 stitches on this row) Fwd pass:    TKS in first two stitches.  Make increase using method established in row 2 (pattern between *’s).  TKS in next stitch.  Make another increase.  TKS for remainder of row.  (9 lps on hook).  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.

Row 6:  Fwd pass:  TKS across (9 lps on hook).  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.  

Row 7: (increase 2 stitches on this row) Fwd pass:  TKS in first three stitches.  Make increase.  TKS in next stitch.  Make in Increase.  TKS for remainder of row.  (11 lps on hook).  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.  

Rows 8-42:  Fwd pass:  TKS across (11 lps on hook).  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.

Row 43:  Fwd pass:  TKS in first 3 stitches.  Skip next stitch.  TKS in next stitch.  Skip next stitch.  TKS for remainder of row.  (9 lps on hook)  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.

Row 44:  Same as for row 6.

Row 45:  Fwd pass:  TKS in first 2 stitches.  Skip next stitch.  TKS in next stitch.  Skip next stitch.  TKS for remainder of row.  (7 lps on hook)  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.

Row 46:  Fwd pass:  Same as for row 4.

Row 47:  Fwd pass:  TKS in first stitch.  Skip next stitch.  TKS in next stitch.  Skip next stitch.  TKS for remainder of row.  (5 lps on hook)  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.

Row 48:  Same as for row 2.

Row 49:  (Bind off)  Begin as for TKS by inserting hook in next stitch between the two vertical bars and under the horizontal bars, from front to back through the fabric. Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.  Bind off each stitch in this manner.  

Button loop:  Remove hook from loop and replace with a much smaller hook (I used an 8mm hook, but anything near that will work).  Chain 7.  Slip stitch to beginning bind-off stitch from row 49.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing:  Stitch a 1- 1 1/2 size button to the opposite end as button loop to fasten.  Be sure to try on the headband and place the button in the appropriate spot for it to have the desired fit.  If desired, stitch on large button for decoration in desired place.  A flower or other decoration may be used instead.  (Please note that I crocheted a cover to a button I had to use for the closure so it would match.   Any desired button can be used.)

Sunday, November 24, 2013

Memorial for Daisy

Well this year has been different for us.  I guess each year is different than the next - but you have some years that just stand out more than others wouldn't you say?  This has been one of those years.

While I could go into lots of boring details about my life - this post has a more specific purpose.  We had the sad experience of losing another baby.  I was 20 wks 6 days along with a sweet baby girl.  Unfortunately it wasn't meant to be.  There was a cord accident and she passed away before we met her. It really did break my heart.  It's been broken a few times before.  I can't say that it gets any easier - or that healing comes any faster.  I don't think I will ever forget the feelings I had as I watched my sweet boys (12 and 9) carry that tiny casket to the grave.  Seeing my dear husband weep over that same casket after the service - well, sometimes it seems that life is a lot to bear.  (Sigh)

I've been doing my best to focus on all of the wonderful blessings I enjoy in my life.  I truly have a beautiful family and many friends and neighbors who have shown great compassion and kindness.  If you and I are friends on facebook, you might have seen that each day this month I have been posting what I am thankful for.  This was a devastating experience for our family, and while we have had much support and company, there comes a time when the dust settles and you find yourself all alone with your emotions and grief.  Posting what I am thankful for has been one way for me to try to cope and remind myself of the joys life still holds for us to enjoy.

As part of my journey to healing,  I try to memorialize the life that was lost to us in some way.  After our first loss - I put my grief into a lovely quilt that still hangs on my wall.  After the second - I wrote up my first crochet pattern and posted it years ago on this same blog.  For this one - I wanted to post another pattern free to those who would like it.  I worked on this shawl pattern in the spring.  When the shawl was finished, I took it with me to a crochet conference when I was first pregnant.  This shawl was a labor of love.  I truly love the way it turned out, and would like to share it.  I had it labeled as triangle tunisian shawl - but I'm changing the name to The Daisy Shawl.   Daisy was her name.  We truly loved the baby we were waiting to meet.  In rememberance...





The Daisy Shawl

Yarn: 3 skeins cotton-ease
Hook size: 10 US 6.0 mm tunisian hook (will need one with a long cord to accommodate all the stitches)
Gauge:  for body of shawl - 14 stitches 22 rows = 4 inches in tunisian knit stitch
    for border of shawl -14 stitches 16 rows = 4 inches in single crochet

Finished Size:  Before edging is added, shawl measures approximately 21.5 inches from top to bottom at center, the longest point.  From corner to corner along the top it measures approximately 49.25 inches wide.

Special stitches
TSS: (Tunisian simple stitch): This traditional stitch appears at the end of the forward pass of most of the rows in this piece. Traditionally this stitch is worked by inserting your hook into the vertical bar of the next stitch, yarn over, and pulling up a loop.  On the last stitch of the row however - it is recommended to insert the hook under the last 2 vertical bars of the row.  This will give the end of the row a more uniform look to the beginning end of the row.  It is very similar to a TKS.
TKS: (Tunisian knit stitch) Insert hook in next stitch between the two vertical bars and under the horizontal bars, from front to back through the fabric. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
TPS: (Tunisian pearl stitch) Move yarn to front of work, insert hook from right to left, into front vertical bar of next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop.

Pattern
Foundation Chain: (This shawl is constructed from the bottom up) Chain 3.
Row 1: Forward Pass (Fwd): Pull up a loop in second chain from hook and remaining ch. (3 lps on hook). Return Pass (Rtn): Yo, pull through 1 lp. *Yo, pull through 2 lps. Repeat from * for remainder of row.
Row 2: (Increase 2 stitches on this and each remaining row.) Fwd: Looking at row 1, you will see 3 sets of vertical bars (2 bars per set = 6 vertical bars). Insert hook in between first and second set of vertical bars to back of the fabric, yo, pull up a loop. (Increase made) *Insert hook in between the two bars of the next set to the back of the fabric, yo, and pull up a loop. (Tunisian knit stitch made) Repeat from * one time. Insert hook in between second and third set of vertical bars to back of fabric, yo, and pull up a loop. (Increase made) TSS in last stitch.  (5 loops on hook). Rtn: Same as for row 1.
Row 3: Fwd: Insert hook in between first and second set of vertical bars to back of the fabric, yo, pull up a loop. TKS each stitch until 1 stitch remains. Insert hook in between the last two sets of vertical bars to back of fabric, yo, and pull up a loop. TSS in last stitch.  (7 loops on hook). Rtn: Same as for row 1.

Each remaining row will increase at the beginning and end in this same manner.  From here on, it will be referred to as ‘increase’ only.  Please refer back to the instructions above for the increase if needed.

Row 4-7:  Repeat as for row 3.  (At the end of the forward pass row 4 has 9 lps on hook, row 5 has 11 lps on hook, etc.  Each row increases in this manner by 2.)
Row 8:  Fwd:  Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next  [1] stitch.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({17} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 9-15, repeat as for row 8 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s  as indicated.
Row 9: [3], {19}
Row 10: [5], {21}
Row 11: [7], {23}
Row 12: [9], {25}
Row 13: [11], {27}
Row 14: [13], {29}
Row 15: [15], {31}
Row 16: Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next [1] stitch.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({33} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 17-23, repeat as for row 16 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 17: [3], {35}
Row 18: [5], {37}
Row 19: [7], {39}
Row 20: [9], {41}
Row 21: [11], {43}
Row 22: [13], {45}
Row 23: [15]. {47}
Row 24:  Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next [1] stitch.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({49} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 25-31, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 25: [3], {51}
Row 26: [5], {53}
Row 27: [7], {55}
Row 28: [9], {57}
Row 29: [11]. {59}
Row 30: [13], {61}
Row 31: [15]. {63}
Row 32: Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next [1] stitch.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({65} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.*
For rows 33-39, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 33: [3], {67}
Row 34: [5], {69}
Row 35: [7], {71}
Row 36: [9], {73}
Row 37: [11], {75}
Row 38: [13], {77}
Row 39: [15], {79}
Row 40: Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next [1] stitch.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({81} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 41-47, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 41: [3], {83}
Row 42: [5], {85}
Row 43: [7], {87}
Row 44: [9]. {89}
Row 45: [11], {91}
Row 46: [13], {93}
Row 47: [15], {95}
Row 48:  Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches. TKS in next [1] stitch.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({97} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 49-55, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 49: [3], {99}
Row 50: [5], {101}
Row 51: [7], {103}
Row 52: [9], {105}
Row 53: [11], {107}
Row 54: [13], {109}
Row 55: [15], {111}
Row 56:  Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next [1] stitch. TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({113} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 57-63, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 57:  [3], {115}
Row 58: [5], {117}
Row 59: [7], {119}
Row 60: [9], {121}
Row 61: [11], {123}
Row 62: [13], {125}
Row 63: [15]. {127}
Row 64:  Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next [1] stitch. TPS in next 8 stitches. TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({129} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 65-71, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 65: [3], {131}
Row 66: [5], {133}
Row 67: [7], {135}
Row 68: [9], {137}
Row 69: [11], {139}
Row 70: [13], {141}
Row 71: [15], {143}
Row 72:  Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches. TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next [1] stitch. TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches. TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({145} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 73-79, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 73: [3], {147}
Row 74: [5], {149}
Row 75: [7], {151}
Row 76: [9], {153}
Row 77: [11], {155}
Row 78: [13], {157}
Row 79: [15], {159}
Row 80:  Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in each stitch until one stitch remains.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({161} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 81-87, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in {}’s as indicated.
Row 81: {163}
Row 82: {165}
Row 83: {167}
Row 84: {169}
Row 85: {171}
Row 86: {173}
Bind off: Pull up a loop as for TKS.  Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.  Repeat for each stitch on this row until you reach the last stitch.  Pull up a loop as for TSS in last stitch.  Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Border:
Attach yarn to top right corner.  Working in the back loop only, make a sc in each stitch across top of shawl. (173)  Make 2 more sc in last stitch to turn corner.  Rotate fabric and work a sc in side of each row (86 sc).  Work 3 sc in bottom corner.  Rotate fabric and work a sc in side of each row on other side (86 sc).  Work 2 more sc in top corner where beginning sc was made. Sl st to beginning sc to join.  Ch 1, turn.

Edging:
Row 1:  Work this entire row in the front loops only.  Sc in next sc.  *Sc in next sc.  Ch 4.  Skip next 2 sc.*  Repeat pattern between *’s until reaching the bottom corner.  Sc in first sc of corner 3 sc.  (There should be 29 pattern repeats along the side) Ch 5.  Skip corner sc.  Repeat pattern between *’s until reaching the end.  Sc in next 2 sc.  Ch 1, turn.  (There should be 59 chain spaces on this row, 29 on each side plus the corner space)
Row 2:  Sc in first sc.  Ch 3. *Skip next sc. Sc in next ch space. Chain 4.* Repeat pattern between *‘s until you reach the corner ch space. Sc, ch 7, sc in corner chain space.  Continue on with pattern between *’s until you reach the last ch space.  Sc in last ch space.  Ch 3.  Skip next sc.  Sc in last sc.  Ch 1, turn. (61 ch spaces)
Row 3:  Sc in first sc.  *Sc in ch space.  Ch 4.  Skip next sc.  Sc in next ch space.*  repeat pattern between *‘s until reaching the corner space.  Sc, ch 9, sc in corner space.  Continue on with pattern between *’s until you reach the last ch space.  Sc in last ch space.  Sc in last sc.  Ch 1, turn. (61 ch spaces)
Row 4:  *Ch 2, make 2 dc in next ch sp.  Picot.  Make 2 dc in same ch sp.  Ch 2.  Sl st in next ch sp.*  Repeat pattern between *’s until reaching the corner ch sp.  Ch 2, (make 2 dc in center ch sp.  Picot.) Repeat pattern in ()’s 2 more times.  Make 2 more dc in center ch sp.  Ch 2.  Sl st in next ch space.  Repeat pattern between *’s until end of row.   ending with a sl st in second to last ch sp.  Ch 2.  Make 2 dc in next ch sp.  Pico.  make 2 more dc in same ch sp.  Ch 2.  Sl st in last sc. Ch 1.  Do not turn.
Border along top:   (Once the sc stitches are reached - work this row in the back loops only)  Rotating shawl - work 1 row of sc along the top edge of the shawl.  Fasten off, weave in ends.