Sunday, November 24, 2013

Memorial for Daisy

Well this year has been different for us.  I guess each year is different than the next - but you have some years that just stand out more than others wouldn't you say?  This has been one of those years.

While I could go into lots of boring details about my life - this post has a more specific purpose.  We had the sad experience of losing another baby.  I was 20 wks 6 days along with a sweet baby girl.  Unfortunately it wasn't meant to be.  There was a cord accident and she passed away before we met her. It really did break my heart.  It's been broken a few times before.  I can't say that it gets any easier - or that healing comes any faster.  I don't think I will ever forget the feelings I had as I watched my sweet boys (12 and 9) carry that tiny casket to the grave.  Seeing my dear husband weep over that same casket after the service - well, sometimes it seems that life is a lot to bear.  (Sigh)

I've been doing my best to focus on all of the wonderful blessings I enjoy in my life.  I truly have a beautiful family and many friends and neighbors who have shown great compassion and kindness.  If you and I are friends on facebook, you might have seen that each day this month I have been posting what I am thankful for.  This was a devastating experience for our family, and while we have had much support and company, there comes a time when the dust settles and you find yourself all alone with your emotions and grief.  Posting what I am thankful for has been one way for me to try to cope and remind myself of the joys life still holds for us to enjoy.

As part of my journey to healing,  I try to memorialize the life that was lost to us in some way.  After our first loss - I put my grief into a lovely quilt that still hangs on my wall.  After the second - I wrote up my first crochet pattern and posted it years ago on this same blog.  For this one - I wanted to post another pattern free to those who would like it.  I worked on this shawl pattern in the spring.  When the shawl was finished, I took it with me to a crochet conference when I was first pregnant.  This shawl was a labor of love.  I truly love the way it turned out, and would like to share it.  I had it labeled as triangle tunisian shawl - but I'm changing the name to The Daisy Shawl.   Daisy was her name.  We truly loved the baby we were waiting to meet.  In rememberance...





The Daisy Shawl

Yarn: 3 skeins cotton-ease
Hook size: 10 US 6.0 mm tunisian hook (will need one with a long cord to accommodate all the stitches)
Gauge:  for body of shawl - 14 stitches 22 rows = 4 inches in tunisian knit stitch
    for border of shawl -14 stitches 16 rows = 4 inches in single crochet

Finished Size:  Before edging is added, shawl measures approximately 21.5 inches from top to bottom at center, the longest point.  From corner to corner along the top it measures approximately 49.25 inches wide.

Special stitches
TSS: (Tunisian simple stitch): This traditional stitch appears at the end of the forward pass of most of the rows in this piece. Traditionally this stitch is worked by inserting your hook into the vertical bar of the next stitch, yarn over, and pulling up a loop.  On the last stitch of the row however - it is recommended to insert the hook under the last 2 vertical bars of the row.  This will give the end of the row a more uniform look to the beginning end of the row.  It is very similar to a TKS.
TKS: (Tunisian knit stitch) Insert hook in next stitch between the two vertical bars and under the horizontal bars, from front to back through the fabric. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
TPS: (Tunisian pearl stitch) Move yarn to front of work, insert hook from right to left, into front vertical bar of next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop.

Pattern
Foundation Chain: (This shawl is constructed from the bottom up) Chain 3.
Row 1: Forward Pass (Fwd): Pull up a loop in second chain from hook and remaining ch. (3 lps on hook). Return Pass (Rtn): Yo, pull through 1 lp. *Yo, pull through 2 lps. Repeat from * for remainder of row.
Row 2: (Increase 2 stitches on this and each remaining row.) Fwd: Looking at row 1, you will see 3 sets of vertical bars (2 bars per set = 6 vertical bars). Insert hook in between first and second set of vertical bars to back of the fabric, yo, pull up a loop. (Increase made) *Insert hook in between the two bars of the next set to the back of the fabric, yo, and pull up a loop. (Tunisian knit stitch made) Repeat from * one time. Insert hook in between second and third set of vertical bars to back of fabric, yo, and pull up a loop. (Increase made) TSS in last stitch.  (5 loops on hook). Rtn: Same as for row 1.
Row 3: Fwd: Insert hook in between first and second set of vertical bars to back of the fabric, yo, pull up a loop. TKS each stitch until 1 stitch remains. Insert hook in between the last two sets of vertical bars to back of fabric, yo, and pull up a loop. TSS in last stitch.  (7 loops on hook). Rtn: Same as for row 1.

Each remaining row will increase at the beginning and end in this same manner.  From here on, it will be referred to as ‘increase’ only.  Please refer back to the instructions above for the increase if needed.

Row 4-7:  Repeat as for row 3.  (At the end of the forward pass row 4 has 9 lps on hook, row 5 has 11 lps on hook, etc.  Each row increases in this manner by 2.)
Row 8:  Fwd:  Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next  [1] stitch.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({17} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 9-15, repeat as for row 8 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s  as indicated.
Row 9: [3], {19}
Row 10: [5], {21}
Row 11: [7], {23}
Row 12: [9], {25}
Row 13: [11], {27}
Row 14: [13], {29}
Row 15: [15], {31}
Row 16: Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next [1] stitch.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({33} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 17-23, repeat as for row 16 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 17: [3], {35}
Row 18: [5], {37}
Row 19: [7], {39}
Row 20: [9], {41}
Row 21: [11], {43}
Row 22: [13], {45}
Row 23: [15]. {47}
Row 24:  Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next [1] stitch.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({49} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 25-31, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 25: [3], {51}
Row 26: [5], {53}
Row 27: [7], {55}
Row 28: [9], {57}
Row 29: [11]. {59}
Row 30: [13], {61}
Row 31: [15]. {63}
Row 32: Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next [1] stitch.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({65} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.*
For rows 33-39, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 33: [3], {67}
Row 34: [5], {69}
Row 35: [7], {71}
Row 36: [9], {73}
Row 37: [11], {75}
Row 38: [13], {77}
Row 39: [15], {79}
Row 40: Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next [1] stitch.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({81} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 41-47, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 41: [3], {83}
Row 42: [5], {85}
Row 43: [7], {87}
Row 44: [9]. {89}
Row 45: [11], {91}
Row 46: [13], {93}
Row 47: [15], {95}
Row 48:  Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches. TKS in next [1] stitch.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({97} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 49-55, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 49: [3], {99}
Row 50: [5], {101}
Row 51: [7], {103}
Row 52: [9], {105}
Row 53: [11], {107}
Row 54: [13], {109}
Row 55: [15], {111}
Row 56:  Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next [1] stitch. TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({113} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 57-63, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 57:  [3], {115}
Row 58: [5], {117}
Row 59: [7], {119}
Row 60: [9], {121}
Row 61: [11], {123}
Row 62: [13], {125}
Row 63: [15]. {127}
Row 64:  Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next [1] stitch. TPS in next 8 stitches. TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({129} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 65-71, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 65: [3], {131}
Row 66: [5], {133}
Row 67: [7], {135}
Row 68: [9], {137}
Row 69: [11], {139}
Row 70: [13], {141}
Row 71: [15], {143}
Row 72:  Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in next 6 stitches (8 lps on hook).  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches. TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next [1] stitch. TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches. TKS in next 8 stitches. TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 8 stitches.  TPS in next 8 stitches.  TKS in next 6 stitches.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({145} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 73-79, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in []’s and {}’s as indicated.
Row 73: [3], {147}
Row 74: [5], {149}
Row 75: [7], {151}
Row 76: [9], {153}
Row 77: [11], {155}
Row 78: [13], {157}
Row 79: [15], {159}
Row 80:  Fwd: Increase one.  TKS in each stitch until one stitch remains.  Increase one.  TSS in last stitch.  ({161} loops on hook).  Rtn:  Same as for row 1.
*For rows 81-87, repeat as for row 24 substituting the numbers in {}’s as indicated.
Row 81: {163}
Row 82: {165}
Row 83: {167}
Row 84: {169}
Row 85: {171}
Row 86: {173}
Bind off: Pull up a loop as for TKS.  Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.  Repeat for each stitch on this row until you reach the last stitch.  Pull up a loop as for TSS in last stitch.  Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Border:
Attach yarn to top right corner.  Working in the back loop only, make a sc in each stitch across top of shawl. (173)  Make 2 more sc in last stitch to turn corner.  Rotate fabric and work a sc in side of each row (86 sc).  Work 3 sc in bottom corner.  Rotate fabric and work a sc in side of each row on other side (86 sc).  Work 2 more sc in top corner where beginning sc was made. Sl st to beginning sc to join.  Ch 1, turn.

Edging:
Row 1:  Work this entire row in the front loops only.  Sc in next sc.  *Sc in next sc.  Ch 4.  Skip next 2 sc.*  Repeat pattern between *’s until reaching the bottom corner.  Sc in first sc of corner 3 sc.  (There should be 29 pattern repeats along the side) Ch 5.  Skip corner sc.  Repeat pattern between *’s until reaching the end.  Sc in next 2 sc.  Ch 1, turn.  (There should be 59 chain spaces on this row, 29 on each side plus the corner space)
Row 2:  Sc in first sc.  Ch 3. *Skip next sc. Sc in next ch space. Chain 4.* Repeat pattern between *‘s until you reach the corner ch space. Sc, ch 7, sc in corner chain space.  Continue on with pattern between *’s until you reach the last ch space.  Sc in last ch space.  Ch 3.  Skip next sc.  Sc in last sc.  Ch 1, turn. (61 ch spaces)
Row 3:  Sc in first sc.  *Sc in ch space.  Ch 4.  Skip next sc.  Sc in next ch space.*  repeat pattern between *‘s until reaching the corner space.  Sc, ch 9, sc in corner space.  Continue on with pattern between *’s until you reach the last ch space.  Sc in last ch space.  Sc in last sc.  Ch 1, turn. (61 ch spaces)
Row 4:  *Ch 2, make 2 dc in next ch sp.  Picot.  Make 2 dc in same ch sp.  Ch 2.  Sl st in next ch sp.*  Repeat pattern between *’s until reaching the corner ch sp.  Ch 2, (make 2 dc in center ch sp.  Picot.) Repeat pattern in ()’s 2 more times.  Make 2 more dc in center ch sp.  Ch 2.  Sl st in next ch space.  Repeat pattern between *’s until end of row.   ending with a sl st in second to last ch sp.  Ch 2.  Make 2 dc in next ch sp.  Pico.  make 2 more dc in same ch sp.  Ch 2.  Sl st in last sc. Ch 1.  Do not turn.
Border along top:   (Once the sc stitches are reached - work this row in the back loops only)  Rotating shawl - work 1 row of sc along the top edge of the shawl.  Fasten off, weave in ends.  

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

The Beard Beanie Story

Out of all of the designs I have come up with - the popularity of the Beard Beanie dwarfs all others by miles.  After many requests, I have felt compelled to share more of our story.

Several years ago - as my husband and I were out on a date, in passing we saw some version of a bearded hat.  It really looked much like a simple ski mask - all one color, with a whole for the eyes and nose.  Upon further inspection - it was apparent that there was something that looked much like a bow-tie almost positioned under the nose.  After squinting one eye and tilting my head a bit - I could see that it was meant to somewhat resemble a beard and mustache.  It was November - and I was swamped with Christmas orders and projects at the time, but after my husband mentioned that I should try designing a bearded hat - I made a mental note that I would come back to it once I finished up my marathon long list of to-do's.

Once most of my holiday business was taken care of - I started working on the design.  The first one was made of all the same yarn - and I had chosen a slightly fuzzy yarn that was cream and beige if I remember right.  We took it to a family party where it was a huge hit and ended up going home with my brother-in-law.  With all my Christmas projects then finished - I set to work on a new beard hat.  The fuzzy yarn had looked nice - but proved to be a bit itchy and ticklish under the nose.  I tried switching yarn types and styles, and tweaked the design.  Eventually I got the fit just right - and found the softest non-fuzzy, non-itchiest yarns I could for the beard portion.  My husband soon found that they worked superbly to keep his face and head warm in the cold Cache Valley winter.  As I added one beard hat after another to my etsy shop - it became apparent that the design was a success.  If you look back through my posts on this blog - here is the first time I introduced a version of the beard beanie popular today.  

There are others claiming to be the original fitted beard beanie - but I want you all to know that I searched high and low and didn't find anything that had the same fit and design as our signature beardbeanie when we introduced it.  I hate copy cats and pride myself on coming up with original designs that are unique to my style and very functional.  So while some may spread a story high and low of thinking it up on a mountain top with a scarf - it's simply not true.  Those other, lesser quality copies are in fact copies.   

No one made the fitted beard beanie before we did.  And to this day - no one makes it as well as we do.  

For my next post, I plan on going in to more detail as to what sets our design apart from the rest.  


Thursday, September 6, 2012

Bobble Hood with Tassels Crochet Pattern

So I finally finished editing the new pattern I had mentioned I was going to post.  It turned out quite lovely I think - hopefully you will like it too!  As I worked the pattern up - I found that there was some torque to the bobble row/hdc row portion.  Blocking will help with this.  The finished piece turns out lovely just the same.  Enjoy!




Yarn: 390 yds worsted weight yarn.  (Wool-Ease by Lion Brand was used for the hood pictured - 2 skeins)

Hook Size: US size I, or size needed to obtain correct gauge

Gauge:  9 rows x 7 sc = 2 inches square


Special Stitches:
bobble: Yo, insert hook in next st as specified by pattern instructions, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, (Yarn over, insert hook in same stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops) 3 times, yarn over, draw through last 5 loops on hook.
fpdc: yo, insert hook behind post of stitch (from front to back), yo, pull through, bring up even with last stitch completed, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through remaining 2 loops to complete stitch.
bpsc: Insert hook from back to front to back around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through two loops on hook.


Pattern:
Beginning Chain: Ch 84.  
Row 1:  Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (83 sc)
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as dc), skip first sc, *sc in next sc, dc in next sc,; repeat from * across.
Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, ending with sc in 2nd ch of turning ch, turn.
Row 4:  Ch 2, skip first sc, sc in next sc.  *fpdc around the post of next corresponding dc 2 rows below, skip sc behind post st just made, sc in next sc; repeat from * across to end of row. Sc in last sc. Turn.
Rows 5-9:  Repeat rows 3-4, ending with row 3.  
Row 10:  Ch 1, sc in each stitch across.  Turn.
Row 11: Ch 1.  Bpsc around each sc from previous row.  Sc in last sc.  Turn.  (83 stitches)
Row 12:  Ch 2.  Skip first stitch (Beginning ch 2 counts as first hdc).  Hdc in next stitch and each stitch across.  Turn.
Row 13:  Ch 1. Sc in first 2 stitches.  *Work bobble in next stitch.  Sc in next 5 stitches.  Repeat from * to last 3 stitches.  Work bobble in next stitch.  Sc in next stitch.  Sc in top of ch 2.  Turn.
Row 14:  Repeat row 12.
Row 15: Ch 1.  Sc in first 5 stitches.  *Work bobble in next stitch.  Sc in next 5 stitches.  Repeat from * to end of row ending with a sc in the top of the turning ch 2.  Turn.
Row 16:  Repeat row 12.
Rows 17- 36:  Repeat rows 13-16 for pattern.

Optional Step:  At this point - the piece will have some torque to it - meaning the corners will not look exactly ‘square’.  You may want to drop the loop (keep it secured so it won’t unravel) and block the piece to square it up before continuing.  

Seam:  Fold piece in half to form hood bringing the with wrong side of fabric together.  Ch 1.  Sc edges together.  (This is done by working sc in loops from both sides of the piece)  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Bottom edge:
Attach yarn to right side bottom edge if right-handed, or to left side bottom edge if left-handed.   (You will work this row facing the wrong side of the fabric)
Row 1: Ch 1.  Make 66 sc spread evenly across bottom edge of hood (33 sc on each side).  Turn.
Row 2:  Ch 1.  Bpsc across to end of row.  (65 stitches). Turn.
Row 3:  Ch 1.  Sc in each stitch to end of row.  (65 stitches)  Turn.
Row 4:  Ch 1.  Sc in first stitch.  *Dc in next stitch, sc in next stitch.  Repeat from * to end of row. Turn. (65 stitches)
Row 5:  Ch 1.  Sc in each stitch across.  Turn.
Row 6:  Ch 1.  Sc in first stitch.  *FPdc around the post of next corresponding dc 2 rows below, skip sc behind post st just made, sc in next sc; repeat from * across to end of row.  Turn.
Row 7:  Repeat row 5.
Row 8-11, repeat rows 6-7.
Row 12:  repeat row 5. In last stitch - make 3 sc to turn corner.
Edge:  Sc along entire front edge of hood to next bottom corner.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Attach yarn to bottom corner of hood on one side.  Make 30 double chain stitches.  Fasten off leaving a 2-3 inch end.  Repeat for other bottom corner.  When both of these are complete, Repeat this process attaching the yarn to the top back corner of the hood making only 10-15 double chain stitches instead of 30.  

Make 3 tassels.  Attach one tassel to the end of each double chain.  Pull ends down through the tassel to weave them in.  Weave all other remaining ends into the hood.  (Pom-poms can be substituted for the tassels as well if desired)

Alternate methods to create ties:  If a double chain is a stitch that you don’t like, or are unfamiliar with, you may take 3-4 strands of yarn and do a basic chain with them all together - making the chain much thicker than it would be with one strand.  A chain with one row of sc would also work.  If you are a knitter, or own a spool knitter or embellish-knit - you can make an i-cord instead.   The long ties should measure 9-10 inches in lenth with the shorter one measuring 3-5 inches.  The length on these can be varied according to your taste.

Copyright Taraduff 2012

Monday, July 30, 2012

My new neckwarmer pattern!

worn to the side on largest size
So I have lots to do on the beard beanie front - fall is fast approaching!  But before I get to that, I'm determined to finish up all of my semi-finished crochet patterns.  Designing is my favorite thing ever!  Well, along with cooking, on the creative front that is... (I can think of lots people that I definitely love more  :-)  ).  Getting the patterns finished and written up is a bit tedious though, seriously.  Busy work.  It is worth it though - for sure.  I love getting comments and photos from customers and readers who've finished up items following one of my patterns!  It seriously makes my day!

worn with collar up on smallest size
worn like a collar, centered on largest size


worn to the side in smallest size




































Plus - I think I'll have a new pattern to post here on my blog soon!  This one will posted right on the blog and will be free to all!  Happy Crocheting!

Friday, July 20, 2012

My Crazy Life and a New Pattern

Hi all!  Long, long time no see, right?  Yep, so sorry for the over 1 yr lapse in posts.  What can I say - life got a bit more hectic than I ever in a million years expected it to!

So, for a quick update - the beardbeanie business pretty much rules my life in the fall/winter months, then in the spring/summer, I try to hibernate a bit for a break.  Hibernating in the summer sounds wierd, I know.

I'm still cooking and crocheting and being Mom and wife - and hopefully maybe getting the juggling (of my time) down better.  And I've been wanting to get back to blogging for awhile now.  Here is my first attempt at getting through the block I've had for the last while!








These are some new head bands I have in the shop, but more importantly I've written up the pattern and need some testers!  It's sized for children and adults.  So if you are reading this and you crochet - wouldn't you love to try it out for me?  Please?  You can use any worsted weight yarn you have!  They look super cute and make great gifts!  Let me know if you're up for testing it for me!

Saturday, February 12, 2011

All natural fibers!

I have had several requests for the beard beanies in all natural fibers.  I am adding a few to my shop here an there as I experiment with the softest all natural fiber yarns for the beards.  If you keep checking my etsy shop, you should see them pop up here and there as I work on some new patterns.

I listed one today that is knitted from a fine deep red wool yarn with a beard crocheted in black with a super soft bamboo/silk blend yarn.

Saturday, February 5, 2011

New website!

Now there's a new place you can order your beard beanies too!  We've opened a new site at beardbeanie.com!  At that site, you can order the hats in the quantities you want!  There is also a new blog for the new site that mainly features a photo gallery where you can share your photos of you in your beard beanies!  It also has the new black and charcoal striped bearded beanie available for purchase!